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And when you’re on the road, don’t be embarrassed to explain – if you need to – that your passenger has dementia. People genuinely understand these days…and if they don’t, move on! Dementia is “a syndrome in which there is deterioration in memory, thinking, behaviour and the ability to perform everyday activities.” (1) In effect, it is brain damage of one type or another (with each type causing a variety of different symptoms). This will bring into question other emotional needs, such as the need for meaning and purpose in life. And it will also bring into sharp focus the issue of mortality, something we all have to face eventually. But the question naturally arises: ‘Can we still adventure with dementia? Can we still go on road trips and travel like we used to?’

Let’s be honest: travelling in a motorhome with a partner with dementia will be different – and could occasionally be difficult – but not necessarily impossible. An imposing landmark on the city’s skyline, it’s central Europe’s largest intact fortress and one of the best places for a panoramic view of the city. The fortress dates to 1077 and was built to protect the archbishops from hostile troops. We took the funicular to the top and strolled amongst the courtyards and fortress walls. Also, for those interested in Salzburg’s history don’t miss its many museums; the Marrionette Museum, Museums of the Rainer Regiment and the Princes’ Chambers. We have a few days to scratch the surface of this amazing city. Below are a few of the places we decide to visit. Legend has it that a temple to the ancient Slavic goddess of Love, Živa used to stand on the location of today’s glorious Gothic church, Church of the Mother of God, built in 1465. The wishing bell, allegedly donated by the Pope, following the death of a local nun, is there for those visiting the church to chime. It is said that anyone who rings the bell three times and believes in God will have their wishes granted. It’s going to be different from now on. If your partner has dementia you’re going to have to think for the two of you.The monster under the sofa bed becomes real if you pretend to throw him out! (Often the “monster” turns out to be nothing more than a bundle of dirty linen). It is here in this seventeenth-century Baroque cathedral that Mozart was baptized and later regularly played some of his most popular tunes on the “Hoforgel,” one of five organs in the Cathedral. Salzburg Cathedral has survived more than 10 fires and was completely rebuilt three times in its 1200-year history. The dome, at 71 meters high, is impressive and the 16 frescos, each depicting a scene from the Old Testament, painted by Italian artists, Donato Mascagni and Ignazio Solari, are quite remarkable.

Later in the week we hire a canoe from the village, which is another test of John’s recovery. I’m in the driving seat but after managing to paddle the canoe several 360s, in both directions, John takes over pole position and we enjoy the rest of our paddle up and down this idyllic river. When you hear remarks such as, “Everyone with dementia does X, Y or Z” – refuse to believe it. Seriously – if you’ve met one person with dementia, you’ve met one person with dementia. And finally, use the charities and professionals (listed below) because their advice has been gained from years of experience. They will also offer a listening, non-judgemental ear. Before I leave, I am keen to visit a Mosque to complete the triad of Abrahamic religions of Toledo. I set off to the old Muslim neighbourhood of Arrabal de Francos to visit the Mosque of the Tornerias. Desacralized by the Catholic Monarchs in 1505 is now used as the ‘Center Foundation of Promotion of the Crafts’. I didn’t know this at the time so on arrival there was no obvious Mosque on show, although I’m pretty sure I was standing over the spot! Caring for someone with dementia can be emotionally and physically draining; this is someone you love, someone you have possibly spent your life with. They are changing and your relationship is changing.We visit Ch âteau de Beynac, protected by 200m cliffs (quiet a climb), double walls and a moat. This impressive castle was a key defensive position for the French and once the home of Richard “The Lion Heart”, Lords of Beynac and Baronies of the P érigord. Just below the castle the charming village of Beynac-et-Cazenac nestles amongst the steep cliffside and I am rewarded with a honey and walnut crepe and an iced tea after my steep climb up. Before I know it, we are sitting outside our van and it’s our last evening before starting our journey home. I reflect on what a wonderful year this has been. I have been truly privileged to have had this opportunity to travel in our wonderful world. We started our journey in India last November and have voyaged in all directions of the compass. Now I am now looking forward to spending quality time with our family and friends. To maintain sequential memory – the memory which allows you to complete a linked series of tasks such as making a pot of tea – keep mugs, cutlery, tea bags etc. in their allocated place. Label the outside of the cupboard doors if it helps.